Working with the dial, movement and the hands must be done in a clean area free of dust and dirt.
The hands are held onto the the movement by friction (except 1 model of ebel where there is a screw holding the second hand on). Hand removers are the correct tool to remove the hands and is an essential tool to have. They are designed to lift the hands off squarely without dropping them.
Method: Place hand removers over the hands at the centre of the dial, careful not to mark the dial, and gently squeeze. The plastic feet come down and pull hands from the dial.
I advise using a latex glove of the left hand as this hand is more likely to touch something that can get marked. If you choose not to, then only touch the movement and dial on the very edge of the dial.
- Loosely place hour hand on hour pinion
- With the crown, turn the hand clockwise until the date changes.
- Remove the hour hand again
- On the point where the date changes place the hour hand on its pinion pointing to the 12 o’clock position
- Using your tweezers push hand down until it is flush with the pinion
- Adjust the hand so it is parallel with the dial
- Move hour to 3, 6 or 9 o’clock position or any convenient position. Just not 12
- Place minute hand on its pinion pointing to 12 and press down so it is flush
- Adjust the hand so it is parallel to the dial
- Fit second hand and push down so it is firmly fitted
- Check hands are not touching each other or the dial at any point and there will be enough space between second hand and the glass
Note: Hands must fit firmly so they do not fall off (customers seam not to like bringing watches back for this). If the hands are not tight enough then you need to tighten them by squeezing the hole smaller.
Note: Painted hands can bend under heat so more room is needed between them and the glass
I advise using a latex glove of the left hand as this hand is more likely to touch something that can get marked. If you choose not to, then touch the movement and dial with the tweezers or on the very edge of the dial.