Guide To Movements

Every movement has a make and model which is usually stamped on it.

Saying that there are a few which have no movement number on it and a few which have alternative makers names.

  • Eta is sometimes called “Esa” on old movements
  • Ronda is also known as “Harley”
  • Hattori in also stamped “Epson” or “Shiojiri”

More information on a particular movements

Enter model (ie 1M12)

Here are some of the most common makes and movements that you will come across

Miyota Movements

These are the most common movements that you will encounter. They are the old Citizen designs and are fantastic. The movement numbers are usually on the top plate although there is an exception

Miyota 2035

This is probable the most common movement that you will come across and one of the best. It is both reliable and accurate.
It comes in several versions with different combinations of day date and the size

  • 2005 ladies size with day date
  • 2015 ladies size with date
  • 2025 no second hand. No day or date
  • 2105 gents size with day and date
  • 2115 gents size with date

There are a few common problems you may encounter

  • metal fragments can easily stick to the magnetic rotor (easily seen with an eye glass). You can de-furr the rotor if you you have spare time as it is one of the easiest but most of the time it is cheaper to change the movement
  • The watch works fine when the battery is first fitted but stops after setting the time. This is a problem with the setting leaver and is not worth trying to fix
  • The watch is stopping because the stem is too long. It sounds strange but it does happen especially if the watch has a screw crown. The symptoms are you set the time and put the watch in the run position and it should work fine, but if you press the button into the casing it sometime stops.
    If you are lucky trim the stem and it is sorted but sometimes you need to change the movement as well because the setting mechanism is damaged

FE

FE movements generally either on top of the movement or they have the number under the battery insulator in very small writing.

Generally they are very reliable with few faults

Ronda Movements

Ronda movements have the number on the top

Ggenerally they are very reliable

Isa Movements

Isa Movements usually have the number on the circuit boards but sometimes with the more complex movements you need to double check the functions and position of the chronograph hands

Movements to watch out for are

  • Isa k63 The slightest bit of water and the movement will not work right
  • Isa 257 has a paper insulator which with wet battery acid conducts electricity
  • Isa chronograph movements do not work if the battery clamp is loose

Eta Movements

eta movements have the number on one of the top plates or on the base plate but is always visible

Generally they are very reliable and some of the easiest to mend which is lucky, since most are of quite high value, you will find these are worth repairing rather than replacing

Things to watch out for are makes like Omega use these Movements but they do change parts so they are not quite interchangeable

Hattori Movements

Hattori movements are always marked nice and clearly. Since they are the old Seiko designs they are very well made and are easy to mend.

Generally they are very reliable and some of the easiest to mend which is lucky, since most are of quite high value, you will find these are worth repairing rather than replacing

Things to watch out for are sometimes the number is reused (ie VX32 and VX32A). While one can replace the other the parts are quite often very different.

These are the most common makes of watch movement. While there are others they are unusual and so are hard to find replacement parts. If you are offered old broken watches for scrap then they are worth keeping as long as they are free (don’t waste money on parts that you may never use).

Click here to go back to previous page